January 15, 2010
Hotel Bahia Blanca, Rio San Juan, La Republica Dominicana
After another routine morning of reading and then playing with the boys, Dad finally lifted his embargo on schedule information and invited me on a cigar and coffee sales expedition. I thought, before arriving here a few weeks ago, that I’d be spending the majority of my time here on such trips. I had looked forward to the prospect of going on the ventures with Dad and helping to increase his productivity. At least, this was how he pitched me to come down here. Still, though less frequent than I thought they’d be, each trip has yielded success. Today’s was no different, despite getting quite a late and slow start, and initially spending money not making it.
We finally set off from the farm at about 2:30pm after getting the guagua loaded with product. We were concerned about a bad tire on the truck that Dad had had repaired a few times this past week. The dirt roads around the farm are full of sharp rocks, and are so bad that it’s impossible to travel faster than 5mph. The tire has a huge gash in it, and despite having been patched twice and an inner tube put in, I had no doubt that at some point we’d be delayed by its failure. Honestly, I’ve been amazed by how long it’s lasted this way. Dad is used to this kind of thing, as I could tell by his demeanor; either that, or he’s disregarded it potential negative impact on our effort and wants to roll the dice. I shouldn’t be surprised. I’ve lived through many roadside mishaps with him growing up, as he seemed to constantly test the limits of his various vehicles’ ability to drive great distances on fumes alone learning the hard way how far he could get. Did I mention that the gas gauge on the guagua doesn’t work either? At least he keeps a bald spare tire and jack in the back of the truck along with an old bottle of bleach filled instead with diesel, just in case.
We got off the dirt roads just fine, and onto the new highway without any issue. This new road is the cleanest and smoothest road I’ve ever traveled on in this country in all my visits. It is, however, possibly the most dangerous road. I’ve heard it morbidly referred to as a ‘carniceria,’ or butcher shop, by Dad and locals alike. There are a few reasons for such a reputation this early in its existence. The speed limit is not really enforced at all here, and most roads don’t even have them because their condition does not permit high speeds – it’s just impossible to go fast when you’re dodging potholes every few feet and going through tires like sheets of toilet paper. Dominicans love to hot-dog it, and are notoriously risky drivers in general. Give them a fresh, smooth, and wide road, unlike the vast majority of roads in this country, and this tendency, along with the speed at which they drive, increases a great deal.
They are extremely pass-happy and do so in the worst possible scenarios: going uphill, or while there are guaguas or semis scarily overloaded and unsecured oncoming and closing fast… especially when they’re closing in fast. They’ll pass you on the left because you’re slowing down to turn left despite your turn signal indicating as such. They’ll pass you so extremely close that your left side-view mirror slaps five with their right, and a double-yellow dividing line means nothing to them.
Another reason the new highway is so dangerous is that Dominicans are known for lots of drinking and driving. They have no shame about it. But, the consequences here for causing a serious or fatal accident while under the influence are far graver than in the States. Victims’ families often exact vigilante justice on the perpetrators. In the worst cases, this comes in the form of brutal revenge killings. I heard one story last week that occurred since I’ve been down here. A drunk driver, who the previous night killed a mother and two daughters, was found by the father and brother of the deceased the following night, and in his sleep was hacked to pieces by their machetes while his family watched and screamed in horror (it’s common here for everyone in a small family to share one room, if not one bed). How medieval is that! As long as you pay attention to these potentialities – the passing or reckless stupidity of the like – and drive defensively, always expecting them to happen, driving on the new highway beats being shaken and bounced all over the cab of a vehicle hands down.
As we took the new highway down off the mountain toward the north coast, I had almost forgotten about the tire. When we arrived at the first toll at the bottom of the mountain, Dad made some remark about its durability, and sure enough, we didn’t get a half a mile further before it gave out. I was prepared to deal with this issue, so I was only mildly put off. If there’s one thing I’m anal retentive about it’s having the right tools to do the job, whatever it may be. Driving on a bum tire to begin with irked me, but at least Dad had a good jack, some blocks to hold the frame up off the ground, wheel stoppers to keep the truck from rolling (did I mention this truck has no emergency brake?), and a spare that will get us at least to the next town where a new tire could be bought. ‘Gomerias,’ or tire shops, are like Starbucks’ in New York City, there are two on every corner, and they all do great business.
There are many advantages to the new highway. One is that the tolls help pay for free roadside service. It’s nothing fancy, but Dad mentioned that we could expect a guy on a motorcycle to pull up any minute to help us change the tire. Not that we needed help, we had all the appropriate tools to do the job well and quickly, but it’s surely a perk if you’re wearing nice clothes or it’s raining out. Obviously, Dad’s been through this before, and told me how surprised he was the last time he got a flat on this road that a guy showed up almost instantly. He also mentioned that I should not hold my breath for the serviceman to show up and we should get started ourselves. In his words, “After all, this is the Dominican Republic.” We were halfway done with the change when the guy showed up. He did the rest of the work, we loaded the trashed tire and the tools into the truck, thanked and tipped him, and continued on our way to the next large town about another 30 minutes away.
A good used tire cost about $50USD. To Dad, this was a ‘new’ tire, and he was so relieved to have it. His mood had completely changed. Keeping to myself, I scoffed at how dependent his temperament is on such easily controlled factors. He doesn’t seem to know how prevent a crisis that, while mildly affecting his circumstances, deeply affects his inner state. Since I’ve been here, I’ve volunteered many times to be allowed, using my experience in production logistics and coordination, to mitigate these factors for him. I’ve already written about how he reacts to such offerings. My feelings aside, this ‘new’ tire alighted him with a rare showing of joy and positivity. And, as I am – and perhaps have always been – subject to his whim, I felt encouraged as well that our late and slow start on the day could be hedged by some sales victories.
We were able to continue on without much of a delay at the gomeria, and I raised the courage to ask the most taboo of questions: “So, what’s the plan?” To my surprise, this time, I was not chided or rebuffed. We were going to Rio San Juan, an up-and-coming tourist town along the north coast. There’s an enormous resort about 20 minutes outside of the town, called Bahia Principe. A few hundred feet from its beachfront, there’s an outpost of vendors facing the ocean shore who’re unassociated with the resort. We actually visited there a week prior to cue them up for a sale, and since the weather’s been so awful for more than a week now, Dad thought it a good idea to see if they’re ready to pull the trigger. For tourists, when the weather’s bad, it’s time to shop. It’s a high percentage stop because there are many vendors in one small area, and they all sell pretty much the same stuff: Caribbean-style artwork, cheap jewelry, rum, vanilla, seashells, t-shirts, but not organic Dominican coffee and quality handmade cigars. It was getting late by the time we got there, but we were able to sell enough product to have money for gas, a good dinner, and a cheap hotel. Dad was pleased, and optimistic for tomorrow.

We drove the short way back to Rio San Juan where Dad knew of a hotel right along the ocean at which we could stay for $14-$32, depending on the room. We pulled up in the dark to a quiet looking, smallish hotel. Greeted by an elderly French woman and her more petit male companion similarly aged, we unloaded our things and went in to have a look. To Dad’s satisfaction, the cheapest room was available. He still wanted to see the it before checking in, so we went down to the lower, kind of basement level, on the way to one of two rooms down there. In the darkness I could not see the ocean, but the fresh breeze blowing white sheets and towels hung on the lines around us and the sounds of crashing waves gave me the feeling of being on a clipper at anchor far from shore. We walked between the lines of blowing sheets along a damp floor that was distinctly deck-like. The cute old French man struggled with the rickety door to the room, and when he finally opened it there were two small beds with a large window facing the sea, a small bathroom and stand-up shower just to the inside of the door, and creaking rusty pipes along the ceiling that unintentionally charmed me beyond words. It was their cheapest room, and it was perfect. I opened the windows all the way and let the swelling sounds of foamy ocean crashes fill the room. I almost never look forward to laying down my head no matter how tired I am, but tonight I can’t wait to bathe in sea-inspired slumber.